The only real Hungarian restaurant in Warsaw is also a wine bar. It is located in stylish, low-ceilinged cellars. The entrance is decorated with the Hungarian coat of arms and original slogans painted on the walls.

"We are here for customers who don't need certain things explained to them. The cuisine and wines are 100-percent Hungarian," says the owner of the restaurant, a Hungarian who has been living in Poland for many years. There are about 70 wine varieties available at Borpince which are not to be found at stores or in supermarkets. "Specific vines growing in Hungary give the wines a taste that is not widely known in Europe," says the owner. The prices start at a few dozen zlotys per bottle. The decor of the place is worth paying attention to. The combination of the low ceilings and thick, brick walls reminds you of a castle cellar. There is an old wine press brought from Hungary. By the stairs there are casks used for aging the wine. Bricks used for construction have the Hungarian coat of arms on them and come from demolished prewar houses. The chairs are also old and reminders of the Art Nouveau style so popular in Hungary. The same is true of the navy-blue and white tiles found in the bathrooms.

"We offer traditional Hungarian cuisine without frills," says the chef. The goulash (zl.13) is a hit, so thick you can cut it with a knife. The chef, a true Hungarian from the Tokay region, also recommends a spicy catfish paté with red peppers (zl.35) and a letcho (zl.26). Roasted duck thigh with potatoes and fried cabbage (zl.44). For dessert one can order a braised walnut pancake with chocolate sauce (zl.15) or a chestnut dessert (zl.12) served with rum and whipped cream. "For those wishing to try a palette of Hungarian tastes we prepared a weekend buffet," says Beata Tron, manager. On Saturdays and Sundays, from noon until 4 p.m. for zl.59, there is an all-you-can-eat buffet with side dishes, soups , main courses and deserts. The restaurant can fit about 80 customers.

Borpince Hungarian restaurant and wine bar, 1 Zgoda St., open noon to the last guest, for reservations call:0-22 828-22-44, www.borpince.pl