"Sushi is a culinary field that boasts hundreds of taste combinations, and one that is continuously developing," says Grzegorz, manager of Suiro Sushi on Grzybowska Street. The restaurant is the "youngest sister" of the Akasaka family, which owns another two locations, both under the Akasaka name-located in CH Land and the Galeria Mokotów shopping mall. Perhaps the restaurant's greatest pride is the sushi bar, with plates floating their way around the Sushi bar on a little conveyor belt containing different varieties of Japanese delicacies. The plates are one of five colors, each with a different price, and altogether present around one hundred kinds of sushi. "Moreover, every guest can order an individualized menu," adds Grzegorz. "With the vast numbers of components, the number of sushi varieties is almost unlimited." At the sushi bar chef Kang Seung Han from Korea reigns. He has been in Poland for 20 years and has also prepared Japanese specialties in Thailand, Australia, New Zealand and Lithuania. For every substantial order, he gives guests a present: an extra portion from the sushi bar.

At Suiro Sushi, there are dozens of characteristic Japanese and Korean dishes available. The most interesting dish is duck: the preparation of which takes a long time-marinated and specially seasoned over a few days. The restaurant is the only one in Warsaw to offer it. Lunch set menus cost from zl.20-30 and snacks from zl.12-17. Both are popular. Mixed set menus are also available, in which a wide range of Japanese delicacies can be sampled. The selection of soups includes, of course, miso-zl.7 and seafood-zl.18. Hot dishes are served in an attractive way, and the portions are big, ranging in price from zl.42-48. Special set menus for two, four and six guests are also offered. The menu features many excellent fish dishes, with tuna from the world's cleanest region-caught off the coast of Thailand. You can also order eel, gilthead bream and various seafood, including scallops Saint Jacques and Arctic mussels, which look impressive on the plate.

Everything at Suiro Sushi reflects the feel and atmosphere of the Far East. A mini-fountain, figurines, fans, screens, lamps even utensils have been imported from Japan. The restaurant also has a huge selection of Asian alcoholic beverages. The menu includes two kinds of Japanese beer, the original Japanese apricot wine-ume, and many more alcoholic beverages some of which are completely unheard of in Poland.

Suiro Sushi-Akasaka, 30 Grzybowska St.; tel. 0-22 620-50-25.