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The Warsaw Voice » Other » December 16, 2009
On the town
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French Dash and Culture Clash
December 16, 2009   
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The five-star Sofitel Warsaw Victoria hotel has a restaurant that serves excellent cuisine, although few in Warsaw know of its existence. Online information about the restaurant is scarce and one rarely hears from friends that they have recently dined at Canaletto. Why? The reason perhaps is that Canaletto is considered a hotel restaurant whose principal goal is to serve hotel guests. But this perception is wrong because anyone visiting Canaletto will find first-rate culinary delicacies.

Olivier Croso, the chef, sums up his approach at Canaletto in the following way: local Polish ingredients of the highest quality, French technique and refinement. And he walks the walk, although his efforts to combine two culinary traditions do not always produce a perfect result. But one has to admit that Croso pursues his concept with determination. The shortcomings only show how difficult it is to reconcile a typical French goose foie gras with a salad made of Polish peppers and artichokes.

The pigeon breast with a beetroot and raspberry chutney was delicious and so was the boletus cream soup. I have not eaten such an aromatic, well-balanced boletus soup for some time. The venison with goose liver leaves no doubt that Croso knows his stuff. It is not his fault that Polish and French flavors tend to clash from time to time.

Canaletto has an elegant decor in pastel hues and a warm interior. The restaurant may be suitable if you are planning a lavish dinner and can afford to spend from zl.200 to zl.300 for a dinner for two.

Next door, in the Sofitel Warsaw Victoria's Hetmańska room, you can take in an exhibition of paintings by Rajmund Giersz until mid-January. Giersz is inspired by impressionism and the paintings are warm, joyful and technically precise.

Dominik Skurzak

Canaletto Restaurant, 11 Królewska St.
00-065 Warsaw, tel. 22 657 80 11
Opening hours: noon to midnight
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