The Shifting Sands of Time
August 18, 2004
Słowiński National Park is mainly famous for its walking sand dunes, which make up one of the largest examples of this phenomenon in Europe.
Winds ripple their surface, forming elongated waves, parabolas, mounds, hills and vales. The most active dunes move at a rate of up to 10 meters a year. Amid fragrant woodlands and picturesque lakes, you can hike and bike, ride a horse, sail and swim, with additional attractions provided by museums, lighthouses, charming little churches and palaces.
The vast, shallow coastal lakes Gardno and Łebsko, bays that were cut off from the Baltic by sand bars, attract flocks of birds and bird-watchers alike. Pine forests are home to rare animals, while secluded villages cultivate old Slav traditions. Of course there is always the sea.
The "Checkered Land" is dissected by a trail which takes in a number of villages with charming examples of the traditional half-timbered architecture. Starting in Jarosławiec, it continues via Jezierzany, ٱcko, Swołowo, Wodnica and Objazda to Smołdzino.
From Smołdzino to Rowokół Hill
The small village of Smołdzino is well worth seeing for its 17th-century Church of the Holy Trinity and a natural history museum with a collection devoted to the unique wildlife of Słowiński National Park. The main reason for coming here, however, is the nearby Rowokół Hill, the highest point in this area (115 m). In the past it was a holy place, first for pagans, and then Christians, a navigation point and a stronghold (the northern slope features the remnants of an ancient fort).
A 25-meter tower on the summit, which is a fire lookout, doubles as a viewing platform. Climbing it is a challenge since the steps are at an intimidating 70 degrees, but the view is worth the effort.
From Czołpino to the dunes
Situated at the heart of the park, Czołpino is a small village popular with visitors who want to escape from the city grind. Its picturesque surroundings are dominated by Czołpińska Góra (56 m), the highest sedentary dune in the park.
Kluki, a Slovincian village
Isolated from the outer world by marshes, the tiny village of Kluki, about one kilometer west of Łebsko, is the place where slovincian traditions survived longest.
Visiting the hamlet is like moving back in time. Most of Kluki has been turned into a stunning open-air museum of Slovincian architecture, which occupies almost 10 hectares. The old half-timbered buildings are fascinating examples of traditional houses and workshops, among which is an array of barns, stables, outdoor bread ovens, stores, cellars and wells. Cattle grazing among the buildings, fruit trees, vegetable and flower gardens, drying peat, farming and fishing tools scattered around, all recreate an old-time Slovincian village and fill it with life.
Every year the museum holds a variety of folk events and outdoor festivals, during which you can try your hand at activities such as baking bread, spinning and weaving, sewing and repairing fishnets, making horseshoes, picking fruit and vegetables or making jams. One of the most colourful events is the Black Wedding, originating from the tradition of collective peat cutting. Working hand in hand, the villagers supplied all homesteads with fuel, and to find relief from the daily toil, they would have common meals and fun in the evenings. This period of festivities came to be known as the "black wedding". Today it's predominantly a craft fair featuring concerts of folk music groups and dazzling dance performances.
Łeba
Straddling the banks of the Łeba River, between lakes Sarbsko and Łebsko, Łeba is one of Poland's best-known summer resorts, which had already gained popularity by the end of the 19th century. The town also makes a great base for visiting the eastern part of Słowiński National Park.
Life concentrates around the main Ko¶ciuszki St., which boasts the largest number of century-old fishermen's houses in town, their narrow gables facing the street. This charming architecture has helped Łeba to retain the character and atmosphere of an old fishing village. The most picturesque places are along the canal that cuts across Ko¶ciuszki St. and is jammed with bright fishing boats.
From Łeba to the dunes
To see the famous walking dunes, you need to take a fairly long walk west of Łeba. The dunes stretching north of Lake Łebsko culminate near R±bka with Wydma ٱcka, the highest of them (43 m), resembling a crescent with its arms pointing eastwards. Unsurprisingly, it's the number-one destination for all visitors to this area.
Most visitors prefer to walk directly from the town of R±bka, 3 km west of Łeba, accessible by car, minibus, miniature train, bike or simply on foot.
Best Accommodations in the REGION KOŁOBRZEG
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